How long is the North Coast 500, and how many days should you allow?
The North Coast 500 (NC500) is a 516-mile (830 km) scenic loop around the north of Scotland that starts and ends at Inverness. One source advises five nights as the absolute minimum, with seven to ten days as the ideal, and two weeks for travellers who want slow travel and isolation. The distance is fixed, but the time it takes is not: a mile on these roads takes longer than the map suggests, once you add stops.
Which direction should you drive?
You can go west from Inverness towards Applecross, or east along the Black Isle. The route is usually driven clockwise, which means heading west first. One source recommends west for travellers who want the classic Highland landscapes early in the trip. A first-time UK driver may prefer east, which gives a gentler start on the roads before the single-track sections.
Which sections are the hardest to drive?
The route is a coastal loop, but it is not one continuous coastal road. Most of the western and northern stretches are single-track country lanes with passing places. Three parts deserve extra time in your plan:
- Inverness to Applecross. The road includes the Bealach na Bà, which one source describes as the greatest ascent of any road in the UK. It has hairpin bends and steep gradients. The same source says caravans, campervans and learner drivers are advised to avoid it.
- Lochinver to Kylesku. One source describes these roads as tight and narrow, with blind summits and corners. Its mileage is low, but it takes far longer than expected.
- Applecross to Shieldaig. Your GPS may send you on a more direct road. To keep the coastal line, the source says to route via Kalnakill.
Once past Kylesku, the road improves, with some stretches of tarmac. The sections from Tongue towards John O'Groats and from John O'Groats to Dornoch are mostly A roads and trunk roads, which one source describes as easier going.
How many miles does each day cover?
The table below uses the odometer readings from one driver's eight-day summer trip, which went west first. The differences are our own arithmetic from those readings. They include detours, so they are not the official distance between the stops.
| Stage | Miles on the clock at end | Miles covered in stage (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Inverness to Applecross | 89 | 89 |
| Applecross to Loch Assynt | 241 | 152 |
| Loch Assynt to Tongue | 346 | about 105, after removing a kayaking detour |
| Tongue to John O'Groats | 428 | 82 |
| John O'Groats to Dornoch | 530 | 102 |
The same driver's total of 530 miles is above the official 516, because of side trips to attractions, driving within towns and doubling back for photographs. Plan for more than the official distance.
Two sources do not agree on one day. The driver's account of Tongue to John O'Groats says the day before covered "over 170 miles". The odometer readings above give about 105 miles for that stage. Treat the odometer figures as the more reliable, and check a current map before you set your daily mileage.
Where should you split the drive?
The same driver said the Applecross to Loch Assynt stage should have been split across two days. Possible overnight stops along the way include Badachro, Gairloch, Poolewe, Aultbea, or Ullapool. The Lochinver to Tongue stretch, including the coast around Kylesku and Durness, was also described as too much for one day. The driver suggested two to three nights there.
Durness and Tongue are described as sensible bases for at least two nights, if you want to explore the north-west beaches and go walking. Book accommodation once you have fixed your dates, since popular places fill up. One source notes that on a Saturday in summer, most restaurants in Kylesku were fully booked.
What about closures, tolls and licence rules for 2026?
The sources do not give current information on seasonal closures of the Bealach na Bà or other roads, toll charges, permits, one-way rental fees or licence requirements for visitors. This article does not fill those gaps from memory. Check them with the relevant authorities before you travel.
What should you plan for on the road?
- Daylight. Before or after the summer, the days are shorter. One source warns against driving sections in darkness. In June, by contrast, the sun there set at 10.30pm or later.
- Traffic. The route's popularity has added to congestion and to problems on single-track roads. One report says journey times for local people can be up to three times longer in the peak season, and reports describe drivers failing to use passing places.
- Fuel and supplies. Stock up in larger towns. The driver stopped at a supermarket in Inverness before heading into the remote sections.
For details on how rental prices are set, see how rental pricing works. If you are ready to compare cars for your dates, you can search live prices.
